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THE EARLY 



HISTORY OF PALMYRA: 



THANKSGIVING SERMON, 



DELIVERED AT PALMYRA, N. Y., NOVEMBER 26, 1857, 



BY HORACE EATON, 



Pastor of the Presbyterian Church, Palmyra, New York. 



PUBLISHED BT REQUEST OF THE DESCENDANTS OF THE FIRST SETTLERS. 



ROCHESTER: 

PRESS OF A. STRONG & CO., DEMOCRAT AND AMERICAN OFFICE. 
1858. 



THE EARLY 



HISTORY OF PALMYRA: 



THANKSGIVING SERMON, 



DELIVERED AT PALMYRA, N. Y., NOVEMBER 36, 18 



BY HORACE EATON, 
w 

Pastor of the Presbyterian Church, Palmyra, New York. 



A. 



PUBLISHED BY REQUEST OE THE DESCENDANTS OF THE EIRST SETTLERS. 



ROCHESTER: 

PRESS OF A. STRONG & CO., DEMOCRAT AND AMERICAN OFFICE. 

1858. 






33 7/7/ 
if 



? 



Jt 



THANKSGIVING SERMON. 



Is. 35 : I.— The wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them. 

Thanksgiving was first instituted as a social and family festival 
to commemorate especially the perils, virtues and providential 
deliverances of the Pilgrims, who, on the 22d day of December, 
1G20, landed on Plymouth rock. Since then, it has been adopted 
by nearly every State in the Union as " The Forefather's day," — 
in which the early ancestry of every community have justly 
claimed a share in its reminiscences. 

Such reviews are designed to quicken our patriotism and our 
piety, and give new strength to the roots which bind us to the 
soil and the principles of our progenitors. It was a noble senti- 
ment of the ancient Greek, who, while celebrating the valor and 
firmness of his ancestors, exclaimed, " Dying, I will remember 
Argos." 

I am sure, you will not regard it inappropriate, on this occasion 
to direct your thoughts to a *past generation, — to the men, whose 
names you bear, whose memories you honor, whose land you 
inherit. 

The venerable Stephen Durfee informed us, that the early set- 
tlers used to gather on the southern brow of " Winter-Green-Hill," 
from thence to overlook this valley, and mark at different points 
any impression made by civilized man. The wilderness was dense 
and heavy, and evinced a deep and a strong soil, well fitted to fix 
the strong purposes and call forth the strong exertions of strong- 
men. 



*This discourse is principally confined to persons who settled here previous to, or about the year 
1800 J 



4 

Sixty-six years have now passed away, and could the same men 
stand on the same eminence, how striking would be the contrast ! 
The dark and lofty forest has given away to the waving harvest. 
Where went up the smoke of the wigwam, now rises the elegant 
mansion. Instead of the howl of the wolf, are now heard the 
cheerful sounds of a busy and happy community. Before us are 
evidences of men and agencies, to whom we may apply the 
words of inspiration — " The wilderness and the solitary place 
shall be glad for them." 

It is natural first to refer to the different currents of immigra- 
tion — the basis of this population. 

In the obscure background of history, we find the sons of the 
forest, the Iroquois, the general term applied to the "six nations," 
ranging in lordly freedom through their wild domains. Next, 
the French claimed the command of this wilderness. At length 
they gave way to British power. After the Revolution, the treaty 
of 1783 left it in possession of the victorious colonies. But the 
indistinctness of the original charts involved Massachusetts and 
New York in a sharp controversy, — each State insisting upon 
its claim to this part of the western territory. This dispute 
was submitted for decision to commissioners, appointed by the 
different States, who met at Hartford, December 16th, 1786, and 
was settled by a compact between the two States, in which New 
York " ceded, granted, released and confirmed to Massachusetts, 
all the estate, right, title, and property, (the right of government, 
sovereignty and jurisdiction excepted,) which the former had to a 
large territory west of the Military Tract, comprising the whole 
part of country through which the Genesee runs, from its source 
to where it flows into Lake Ontario." The amount of land was 
estimated at about six million acres. By the Legislature of 
Massachusetts this district, in 1783, was granted to Oliver Phelps 
and Nathaniel Gorham, for the sum of §100,000, and from that 
time became private property. Phelps and Gorham the same 
year opened a land office in Canandaigua. 

Besides this "Massachusetts Reserve" there was the "Military 
Tract" These constituted the two general divisions of Western 
New York. The Military Tract was reserved by an act of the 
New York Legislature, July 25th, 1782, to be distributed among 



the officers and soldiers of New York State, who served in the 
Revolution. It was situated directly east of the Massachusetts' 
Reserve, or the Phelps and Gorham Purchase. The western line 
of the Military Tract was drawn "from the mouth of As-so-ro-dus 
Creek, — (or Great Sodus Bay — a contraction of the Indian name,) 
south, along the western shore of Seneca Lake, and east by a 
line drawn from the most westerly boundary of Oneida or Tus- 
carora County, on the Oneida Lake, through the most westerly 
inclination of the west bounds of Oneida and Tuscarora territory, 
south, by a line drawn due east from the southern extremity of 
Seneca Lake." The tract included 1,680,000 acres, and embraces 
the present Counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca and Cort- 
land, the greater part of Tompkins, and a small part of Oswego 
and "Wayne." 

Another locality had a close connection with the early settle- 
ment of this town. 

Wyoming is a beautiful valley along the Susquehanna, in 
the northeastern part of Pennsylvania, twenty-five miles in length 
and only three in width; lying between two parallel ranges of 
mountains, crested with oak and j)ine. The scenery around is 
wild and beautiful, while the valley itself might be chosen for 
another paradise. This lovely spot has been stained by many a 
conflict. Before it was coveted by the white man, the Shawanese 
and the Delawares here shed fraternal blood. The ancient legend 
rims, that while the squaws were gathering wild fruits along the 
bank of the river, a child caught a large grasshopper. The pos- 
session of this insect led to a quarrel among the children. It 
extended to the mothers, and finally arrayed both tribes in a 
hostile attitude. The battle was bloody. The Shawanese lost 
half their number. The remnant abandoned their lands and re- 
moved to Ohio. 

In 1750, adventurers from Connecticut visited Wyoming. 
John Jenkins first surveyed and drew a map of that section. 
The Connecticut Colony in 1754 met a council of the six nations 
at Albany, paid the Sachems two thousand pounds, and took a 
deed of the valley. They claimed the right of settlement, also, 
under the charter of James I., to the Plymouth colony. Their 
claim was ratified by the first judges in England. In 1762 some 



two hundred immigrants from Connecticut had settled in Wyo- 
ming. While the men were in the harvest field, twenty of them 
were cut off by the Indians. The Connecticut company in 17G9 
made a second attempt to occupy their lands, but they then found 
certain Pennsylvanians located upon them, who claimed the val- 
ley under the charter of 1681, given by Charles II. to William 
Penn. Animosities between these two colonies soon ripened into 
open hostilities. Three times the Yankees were driven back, and 
as many times returned. The cause of the Pennamites at length 
lost sympathy w T ith the masses of Pennsylvania, and the proprie- 
taries were unable to rally a force sufficient to dispossess the Con- 
necticut settlers. In 177-1, Wyoming was constituted a township, 
named Westmorland, and joined to Litchfield County, Connec- 
ticut. It then numbered nineteen hundred and twenty two in- 
habitants. 

In the war of the Revolution, both parties joined in the com- 
mon defence. June 29th and 30th, 1778, Col. John Butler, with 
four hundred tories and seven hundred Indians, made a descent 
upon that settlement. They were then without protection, since 
they had sent more than three hundred of their young men to 
join the army of Washington. Col. Zebulon Butler, an Ameri- 
can officer, rallied the old and young and led them to a feeble 
resistance. They were overwhelmed by the multitude of their 
enemies. Two hundred were slain. Then took place that awful 
" massacre of Wyoming," the horrors of which are too well 
known to need rehearsal, and the history of which has been im- 
mortalized by Campbell in his " Gertrude of Wyoming." 

At the close of the Revolutionary war, a council, called by the 
two parties, met at Trenton, New Jersey, December, 1782, and 
decided the unhappy dispute. The valley was to fall under the 
jurisdiction of Pennsylvania, — the Connecticut settlers to be 
confirmed in the possession of their lands. Dr. Peck, in his his- 
tory of Wyoming, thus remarks: " The Penns, by the charter 
of 10 81, were owners of the soil. Their policy was to lay out 
all the best lands into manors and settle them by tenants under 
leases. Thus some of the most objectionable features of the feu- 
dal system were established in Pennsylvania. The Pennamite 
and Yankee wars were not merely a conflict between the proprie- 



taries of Pennsylvania and the Susquehanna company for the 
jurisdiction of the country. It was not a mere question of boun- 
dary, but a question between landlord and tenantry. The ques- 
tion was one in which the tenantry of Pennsylvania generally 
were interested, and consequently the cause of the proprietaries 
was never popular with that class. Wyoming was the battlefield 
where the question was to be settled whether the people who culti- 
vated the soil slioidd be serfs or freeholders? 

Prom the previous history, it is not strange, that many of the 
Connecticut colonists preferred to leave their lands and emigrate 
into other sections. Not a few of these families were connected 
in their future history with this vicinity. They were the first to 
discover this wilderness, and open the way for future settlement. 

There is a humble stone in the old grave yard of this village, 
bearing the inscription — John Swift. But few names are more 
deeply imbedded in the foundations of this community. Many 
of the "first things " cluster around it. John Swift was a native 
of Kent, Litchfield County, Connecticut. When fifteen years of 
age, he became a soldier in the Revolution, and served seven 
years till the close of the war. He was one of the Connecticut 
colony in the valley of Wyoming, and in a bold attempt to fire 
the Block house of the Pennamites, he was shot through the neck, 
the ball passing between the spinal column and the esophagus. 
A like recovery was scarcely ever known in surgery. After 
the settlement of difficulties, a company of Connecticut people 
was formed, and John Swift and John Jenkins were appointed 
agents to select and purchase lands for their occupation. Jenk- 
ins had been in the employ of Phelps and Gorham, as surveyor, 
and was acquainted with this section of the Genesee country. 
In 1TS9, they proceeded to Canandaigua and contracted for 
township No. 12, of the second range, and immediately began 
the survey of lots along Mud Creek. They built a cabin just 
under the brow of the hill, in front of the house now owned 
by Nelson Reeves. AVhile asleej) there with their assistants, 
at two o'clock in the morning, four Indians, attracted by the light, 
put their guns through the open spaces between the logs, killed 
one man by the name of Barker, and shot a ball through the 
nose of another by the name of Church. It is probable this 



8 

attack of the Indians dampened the zeal of the Pennsylvania 
immigrants. True it is, the Susquehanna company was given 
up, and Swift, in order to effect a settlement sufficiently formida- 
ble to render it safe, spent the summer of 1790 in forming com- 
panies in Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island. 

In September, 1790, Swiftmoved his family into this unbroken 
wilderness. He built the first house on the spot where Mr. 
Thomas Lakey's sho}D now stands. It was of logs and covered 
with bark. 

His wife was the first woman who ventured a residence in this 
native wilderness. One evening, when making hasty pudding, 
three Indians came in and sat around the fire. At length they 
made signs of violence. At this, the heroine of the log cabin 
seized a red hot poker and so laid it over their heads, that they 
concluded a " swift " retreat was the better part of valor. 

John Swift was the first pioneer. He was the first moderator 
of the first town meeting. He was the first supervisor. He was 
the first pound tender; the first captain. At his house was held 
the first training. At his house, if we except Canandaigua and 
Bloomfield, was formed the first church west of Oneida Lake. 
Asa Swift, his son, was the first male child born in this town. 
He gave lands for the first grave yard, the first school house and 
the first church in this village.* 

Indeed from 1790 to 1812, the name of John Swift is connected 
with every enterprise, pecuniary, political and religious. At the 
commencement of the war of 1812, he was appointed Brevet 
General of the New York Volunteers. In 1814, while stationed 
at Queenston Heights, he led a detachment down the river, some 
six miles, to Fort George, — surrounded and took prisoners a 
picket guard of the enemy, consisting of some sixty men. In- 
stead of commanding the prisoners to ground their arms and 
march away from them, he suffered them to retain their muskets. 
One of the captives inquired, " who is Gen. Swift ?" Most unad- 



*The first parsonage was built of bass wood logs, on the site of Nottingham's hotel. The first 
framed bam was Luther Sandford's The first tww-story fram< d h use was Silas Hart's, now occu- 
pied by Daniel Gates. The first child born in what was then called the village was Pomeroy Tucker. 
The first blacksmith was Zechariah Blackman. James Smith was the first hatter. Dr. Ainsworth 
was the first postmaster. James Rogers, father of Gen. Thomas Rogers, died in 1793. His grave 
was the first in the "Durfee Burying Ground." The grave of Benjamin] aimer, the father of George 
Palmer, was the second in that place. William Hopkins and his wife died in 17'.:!. on the same day, 
and were buried in the same grave. The "Palmyra Register," the first newspaper in this town, 
was dated October G, ISIS. Pomeroy Tucker commenced the Wayne Sentinel in 1£>24. 



9 

visedly lie stood forth and said, " I am Gen. Swift." In an 
instant the inquisitive prisoner put a ball through his breast. 
Dr. Alexander Mclntyre was by his side when he fell. He was 
borne to the nearest house, where he died and was buried July 
12th, 181-1, aged fifty-two years and twenty-five days. After the 
war, the citizens of Palmyra disinterred his remains and depos- 
ited them in the old cemetry of this village. The New York 
Legislature, out of respect to his patriotism and bravery, pre- 
sented a sword to his eldest son, and directed that a full length 
portrait of Gen. Swift should be hung up in the City Hall, New 
York. 

And here, though not in the due order of settlement, I deem it 
proper to mention that another and the first sacrifice to the war 
of 1S12, was from this place. Major William Howe Cuyler was 
the first lawyer that opened an office in Palmyra, — a man still 
remembered for his public enterprise and generous sympathies. 
He was the aid of Gen. Hall. On the night of the 8th of Octo- 
ber, 1812, he was killed, at Black Rock, by a four pound ball 
from the British battery at Fort Erie. The ball that passed 
through his body, still rusty with his blood, is now in the posses- 
sion of his son, Wm. H. Cuyler of this village. 

William Jackway, John Ilurlburt, Jonathan Millett, Nathan 
Parshall, Barney Horton, James Galloway, Mrs. Tiffany, were 
some of the followers of Swift from the valley of Wyoming. 

Next in the order of time is the Bliode Island Colony. 

In November, 1791, Gideon Durfee, Edward Durfee, and Isaac 
Springer arrived from Tiverton, R. I. They came in wagons on 
the Military road to the old castle at Geneva; from thence with- 
out a path, found their way to Palmyra. Pardon Durfee, hus- 
band of Mrs. Ruth Durfee, now living, came early in the Spring 
of 1792, — driving the cattle belonging to the colony. Nearly 
exhausted with fatigue and hunger, he inquired of his brothers 
if they could bring him some food. With tears they were obliged 
to reply, "we have none;" but there was relief in the case, — 
Webb Harwood had gone to Jerusalem, now Penn Yan, forty miles,, 
to the nearest mill, and was expected back every hour. The next 
August a boat landed near the farm house owned by Hon. Martin 
Butterfield, bringing Gideon Durfee, the elder, and Job, Stephen,, 



10 

and Ruth Durfee. Lemuel Durfee arrived four years later. Ruth 
Durfee married Capt. William "Wilcox. This was the first mar- 
riage in this town. Mrs. Wilcox died, at the age of eighty three, 
the 13th of the present month. 

It is said that Swift had failed to fulfil his engagements to 
Phelps and Gorham, — but when the Durfee family arrived he 
" took heart," for they brought the hard coin in a leather satchel, 
sufficient to pay down for sixteen hundred acres of land. This 
money enabled Swift to secure a warrantee deed of the town. 

These Pioneers were soon followed by William, James, and 
Thomas Rogers, Festus and Isaac Goldsmith, Humphrey Sher- 
man, Zebulon Williams and Weaver Osborn, all from Rhode 
Island. Osborn married Hannah Durfee and resided on the 
farm now owned by Alex'r. Grant. David Wilcox, from Rhode 
Island, came with his wife and two children in April, 1791. Ma- 
ry, his daughter, afterward wife of Alvah Hendee, was born the 
29th of the next June, and was the first white child born in this 
town. 

We come now to another original element. 

The increasing population of Long Island, together with the 
dangers of a seafaring life, induced the wise and far-seeing to look 
out for a home in the wilderness. 

Jn 1788 a company was formed of eleven, in South Hampton, 
Long Island. In the early Spring of 1790, Elias Reeves and Joel 
Foster took their way to the far west, as their agents, — first to 
Fort Pitt, now Pittsburg, where they found Luke Foster, an 
acquaintance. Together they penetrated the vast wilderness of 
Virginia to the Ohio, and passed down to Fort Washington, now 
Cincinnati. There they purchased land on what was called Tur- 
key Bottoms. They left Luke Foster to build and make prepara- 
tion while they returned to conduct the colony to their forest 
home. 

But a single circumstance turned the locality and the future 
history of the projected immigration. When Joel Foster and 
Elias Reeves arrived at Long Island, they found William Hopkins, 
an Uncle of Elias Reeves, and Abraham Foster, on a visit from 
New Jersey. Hopkins was a son of the Hon. Stephen Hopkins, 
•whose trembling hand stands so prominent among the signers of 



11 

the Declaration. William Hopkins had been connected with the 
*" Leasee Compan)-," was acquainted with the Genesee country, 
and saw its prospective importance. He urged upon his friends 
the value of a God-fearing community. He told them of the 
colonies from New England, that they were descendants from the 
Puritans, with principles and purposes congenial with their own. 
His arguments prevailed. The company relinquished the purpose 
of settling on the Ohio — and directed Elias Reeves and William 
Hopkins to pass by the northern route, beyond the Military Tract, 
while Joel Foster, Abraham Foster, and Luther Sanford were to 
explore along the boundaries of Pennsylvania. The Fosters and 
Sanford started June, 1791, but found the country mountainous 
and forbidding. Being carpenters, on consideration of good wages, 
they stopped at a place called Lindleytown and engaged in the erec- 
tion of mills, leaving the work of exploration to Reeves and Hop- 
kins, who on the 20th of August, 1791, left Long Island with their 
rifles and knapsacks, came by water to Albany, — then on foot, 
following the Indian trails to Geneva, — thence to town " No. 12." 
These valleys were well watered. The height and strength of the 
trees were an exponent of the depth and richness of the soil. 
They resolved to try the effect of hard work and honest principles 
upon a region more luxuriant than that from which they came. 
Upon the tall maples and the sturdy oaks, they placed their names 
as a pre-emption mark. This done, Hopkins and Reeves made 
their way across the State to the Pennsylvania line, where they 
found Joel Foster, Abraham Foster and Luther Sanford. There 
they drew and signed the following bond : 

"This instrument of writing witnesseth, that Wm. Hopkins of 
the State of New Jersey, Elias Reeves, Joel Foster, Abraham 
Foster, and Luther Sanford, all of the State of New York, do agree 
and bind themselves, severally, each to the other, under the penalty 
of fifty pounds, to abide by and make good any purchase of land 
which Elias Reeves and Abraham Foster shall make of Oliver 
Phelps, Esq., or any other person, within twenty days from the 
date hereof. The proportion of land, which each of us shall have 



*The Leasee Compnny consisted of sixty men, from Connecticut and New Jersey, united for th e 
purpose of leasing land i'rom the Indians, independently of the government. This company was 
dissolved by an act of Congress. 



12 

is to be concluded among ourselves hereafter. In witness of all of 
which, we have hereunto set our hands and seals, in Ontario Coun- 
ty, State of New York, this ninth day of September, in the year 
of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and ninety- one. 

William Hopkins, 
Elias Reeves, 
Joel Foster, 
Abraham Foster, 

LuTHER SANFORD." 

After concluding this engagement, all, save Elias Reeves and 
Abraham Foster, returned to the Island. These made their way 
back to No. 12, stopping at the house of one Crittenden, residing 
in the " old castle " at Geneva. From him they received a peck 
of apples, the fruit of the old Indian orchard, as a present to John 
Swift. When they arrived, they were offered some of the apples. 
They craved only the seeds, and proceeding to a beautiful bluff on 
the farm now owned by Gen. L^man Reeves, they planted them, 
which proved the first bearing orchard west of Geneva. Having 
selected their lands, they contracted with Phelps, at Canandaigua, 
for five thousand five hundred acres, for eleven hundred pounds, 
New York currency, one hundred of which they paid down. It 
will be noticed this was in September, 1791. The Durfee family had 
not yet arrived. As Swift could not meet his engagements, his 
title was doubtful. Hence Reeves and Foster, to make the thing 
sure, treated with Phelps and Gorham directly. But when Gideon 
and Edward Durfee arrived, his hard money met the hard times, 
and Swift was enabled to pay his notes and received a genuine 
title to the town. Hence we find the Long Island company the 
next year taking their deed from John Swift. 

Having viewed the land, the spies returned, bringing back, all 
of them, like Caleb and Joshua, a good report. This enterprise 
was not a failure. The coming winter, Joel Foster built a sail 
boat, Cyrus Foster making the nails, and launched it on Heddy 
Creek, near South Hampton. After a well spent Sabbath, on 
Monday morning, the 4th of April, 1792, the first colony from Long 
Island embarked on their voyage of nearly five hundred miles. 
They sailed through the Sound to New-York, then to Albany ; 



13 

from Albany they transported their boat by land, 16 miles, to 
Schenectady — with " setting poles " pushed the boat up the Mo- 
hawk to Rome. There the boat was taken from the Mohawk and 
conveyed by land something less than a mile to Wood Creek ; 
thence floating down to Oneida Lake — through the lake and the out- 
let they came to Oswego River ; thence into Seneca River — through 
that to Clyde River— from Clyde River through Mud Creek to 
Saw-mill Creek, landing near the present residence of Hiram Fos- 
ter. The whole voyage occupied twenty-eight days. Mrs. Joel 
Foster brought in her arms her eldest son, Harvey Foster, then an 
infant of eleven months. 

The way now being open, the same old hive sent out repeated 
swarms of working bees. The Clarks, Posts, Howells, Jaggers, 
Culvers, Jessups, and many others, followed. " The wilderness 
and the solitary place were glad for them." This old boat 
did good service in going and returning, with other companies, as 
they arrived from Long Island at Schenectady. It was finally 
conveyed around to Seneca Lake, and used as a pleasure-boat. 
Truly a noble craft. I would go as far to see that old hoat, as the 
ship in which Dr. Kane penetrated the frozen North. 

But I pass to another class of the early settlers — men who, with 
strong arms, resolute hearts and dauntless courage, laid low these 
forests, planted these fields, and built these habitations. 

Cummington is a sterile, rocky town, in Hampshire County, 
Mass. 

The first settlement of that town was by a Scotchman, by the 
name of Mclntyre, in 1770. It has only some thousand inhabi- 
tants, but it has sent forth sons who are " princes in all the earth." 

Lemuel Spear, Dr. Gain Robinson, Bartlett Robinson, Col. John 
Bradish, David White, David Warner, Noah and William Porter, 
Noah Turner, were some of the earliest emigrants from Cumming- 
ton. 

Lemuel Spear was a soldier of the Revolution, and came here 
in 1790. Abraham, Lemuel, Ebenezer, and Dea. Stephen Spear, 
were his sons. Noah Porter was deacon of the Baptist church, an 
honest, godly man. He had a controversy with a friend by the 
name of William Winslow. Porter insisted that he owed Wins- 
low for a sheep. Winslow would not take the pay. It was re- 



14 

ferred, and Porter gained the case. David White settled on the 
farm afterwards owned by David Warner, the father of Nahum 
Warner. The first death in town was that of David White. Da- 
vid, Orin, James and William, were sons of David White. A son 
of James White has recently settled on the old place of his grand- 
father. Calvin, Charles and Luther, were sons of Col. John Bra- 
dish. Reuben Town was the first pliysician. These were all 
from Cummington. 

Isaac Kelly, Stephen Phelps, Webb Harwood, Abraham Lap- 
ham, and Salmon Hathaway, were from Adams, Mass. Major 
Joseph Colt was from Lyme, Conn. ; Asa Lilly from Athol, Mass. ; 
Enoch Sanders from Warren, Litchfield County, Conn. ; Silas 
Stoddard from Groton, Conn. These arrived before or about the 
year 1800. 

Of the few pioneers who still linger among the living, are the 
widow of John Swift, Abraham Foster, Isaac Springer, Mrs. Gain 
Robinson, Mrs. Ruth Durfee,* Mrs. John Hurlburt,* Mrs. Zebulon 
Williams, Col. James Stoddard, the widow* of Major Wm. Howe 
Cuyler, and Israel Delano. 

" Last swallows in autumnal noon-day seen— 
Last flowers, that painted the decaying green — 
Last fruit, that lingered, on life's drooping tree- 
Last stars to sink beneath the dark'ning sea." 

H. From this imperfect survey of the early settlers, I glance 
to the change in tlie agricultural interests. The tall, deep, glorious 
woods, have shrunk away as if affrighted, and, like trembling ante- 
lopes, seem huddled together on the tops of the hills. Farmers 
have pared down their woodlands to the quick. The very stumps 
and roots are now dissolved. 

The clear, polished shaft, that now passes through these mellow 
fields, would blush to own a relation to the old log, hewn out in the 
shape of a plow, by which the pioneers stirred these valleys Once, 
the lioe went before the Txoe-ccike. But now, corn will grow, if a 
horse but draw a five-legged machine on wheels between its rows ! 



Deceased since the delivery of this discourse. 



15 

Once, a farmer and his boys must how to the grain with the 
sickle and the scythe. JVow, the " lord of the manor " rides forth 
in a " triumphal chariot," and the standing fields bow to him. 

It was a hard day's work, with the flail and fan, to separate 
eight bushels of wheat from the straw and " chaff; but, like the 
" new threshing instrument " seen by Isaiah, we now in a single 
day can "thresh a mountain" of straw, and fill a granary with 
wheat. 

Your fathers, with an ox-sled, went to " Jerusalem " for the 
grinding, and to Geneva for the sale of their wheat, and that at 25 
cents a bushel. Now, " the mountain is come to Mahommed " — 
Jerusalem is come to us. We can do our own grinding and sell- 
ing. The first mill, which was Jonah Howell's, ground three ker- 
nels into two ; ours puts the very bran through the bolt. 

If we follow the flour from the mill, we are at once introduced 
amid the rough necessities and severe virtues of their early homes. 
We hear the buzz of the wheel and the double stroke of the heavy 
loom — spinning the flax of their own fields, and weaving the wool 
of their own sheep. We see the daughters, in unconscious beauty, 
sprinkling long webs of "home-spun," spread out upon the green 
grass ; the mothers are weaving the Sunday dress for their hus- 
bands and sons, and they "are not afraid of the snow for their 
households." Before the modern belle shall blush at the simplicity 
of her grandmother, let her look up the old wheel in the garret, 
and "lay her hand to the spindle, and her hand hold the distaff." 
There may have been more refinement in weaving that early fab- 
ric, than in putting on the Parisian dress of the present day. In- 
stead of formal calls by cards, they tuorked while they visited at 
the " quilting," " husking," or " paring bee." In the early morn- 
ing, with the crowing of the cock, they could hear their neighbors 
pounding corn in the stump mortar. 

The close necessities of those early times connected many a 
homely incident with the wedding day. For a time it was said 
that Ruth Reeves, afterward Ruth Durfee, and Ruth Spear were 
the only unmarried damsels in the town, while like their ancient 
namesake they " gleaned among a whole field " of young men. 
The legend runs, that at the news of a fresh arrival from the east- 
ern Padan-aram, many a swain, smitten with the feelings of ancient 



16 

Isaac in his loneliness, was seen making his way down Mud Creek, 
to meet the boat, meditating who might be the Rebecca it might 
bear to him. Now we seem to be Padan-aram itself. Many 
from the east and the west resort here to bear away our Rebeccas 
and Rachels. It is indeed a sincere flattery, but we could wish 
they might " abide with us ;" — but if they must depart, we will 
give them our blessing and hope for them a safe arrival in Canaan. 

The first marriages were solemnized by the Esquire. A day's 
work, a load of wood, or a bushel of beans, were entered as the 
fee. They did better by Ministers. The first marriage attended 
by a clergyman was that of Eiias Reeves. He sent for the Rev. 
Ira Condit, of Canandaigua. His acquaintance with the good 
people at the wedding opened the way for a second visit, in which 
he organized the first Church, — thus we see that reverence for the 
marriage relation leads to the promotion of religion. 

Mutual struggles and hardships begat mutual equality, friendship 
and sympathies. It is by no means certain, that the refinements 
and virtues of social life have advanced, though very much changed 
from the type here presented. 

" Let not ambition mock their useful toil." 

" Oft did the harvest to their sickle yield, 

Their farrows oft the stubborn glebe hath broke, 

How jocund did they drive their teams afield, 

How bowed the woods beneath their sturdy stroke." 

III. Alike noticeable is the contrast between the early and 
more recent trade of this vicinity. 

The first store was a log edifice, on the very spot where the 
depot now stands. Zebulon Williams was the proprietor. That 
store is described as a place of genuine rural felicity. The In- 
dians encamped around it, spending their time in shooting, wrest- 
ling and dancing. The early settlers resorted to the same spot 
for amusement. Williams was the first to offer cash for wheat — 
thirty-seven cents a bushel — six cents a pound for butter. Money 
was tight. Deacon Henry Jessup was largely interested in the 
leather and shoe trade. Joseph Colt carried on an extensive and 
honorable business. Col. James Stoddard was employed by him 
to convey goods from Schenectady up the Mohawk, by Wood- 



17 

Creek and so to this place, and carry produce back in return, making 
the out and in passage once in two months. Mud-Creek was the 
incorporated thoroughfare of travel and exportation. Judge Rog- 
ers cut a sled-road to Lyons to bring up a load of salt. Ebenezer 
Spear traveled on foot to Schenectady to procure some wine as a 
medicine for Webb Harwood's family. Mrs. Bates, the mother 
of Mrs. Stephen Spear, to visit her relatives, rode on horseback, 
carrying a child in her arms, to Boston, Mass. Such were the 
difficulties of travel and trade. 

In reviewing the commercial changes of this place, we can but 
stop and pay a passing tribute to that great man, who undertook 
and achieved the stupendous work — an artificial river, three hun- 
dred and sixty miles in length. In it all, he showed a capacity, 
integrity and devotion to the good of the nation, which posterity 
may not forget. 

When his mind had grasped the grand conception, for fourteen 
years he devoted himself to this interest, without salary or reward. 
Against opposition and ignominy, he seized the compass and level 
and traversed on foot the wilderness intervening between Albany 
and Buffalo, and brought back a survey, by which he so presented 
the possibility and the advantages of this great work as to secure 
public opinion in its favor. 

In 1816, the work was authorized, — July 4th, 1817, the Erie 
Canal was commenced, — in October, 1825, it was finished. Clin- 
ton performed a most desirable " marriage service." He United 
the great Lakes with the Atlantic Ocean, and sent fruitfulness and 
life through half a hemisphere. Freight from Albany to Buffalo 
sank from one hundred dollars to ten. 

I shall leave your imaginations to draw the contrast between the 
early means of travel and conveyance and the present fleets of 
boats, the thundering trains of merchandise and passengers, and 
the telegraphic lightning. What have sixty-six years wrought ! 
Some of the early settlers were dissatisfied that they were so far 
removed from the main channels of travel and communication, 
little thinking that this valley of Mud Creek was to be the great 
sluice-way through which immigration and commerce were to 
pour their ever-increasing flood. 
2 



18 

IV. In the review of their political sentiments and acts, we 
find the early settlers possessed of clear views of SELF-government. 
Throw together a number of New England men, in any wilderness 
or on any island of the watery waste, and the first thing you will 
hear of is a" town-meeting." The true idea of individual free- 
dom is connected with associated regulations and restraints. A 
mutual compact to be. governed by the majority is a seed of the 
" May-Flower." No. 12 was first called Swifttown, then Tolland. 
This not pleasing the citizens, in 1797, between March and June, 
a meeting was held to fix upon one of the names that should be 
suggested. Daniel Sawyer, the brother of Mrs. Swift, was then 
for two reasons in a literary mood. First, he was engaged to Miss 
Dosha Boughton, the first schoolmistress, — second, he had been 
reading ancient history. Doubtless thinking, that as ancient Pal- 
myra had a Zenobia, so his modern heroine should have a Palmyra, 
it is not strange that he should urge this name with felicity and 
success. It was adopted with acclamation. 

The first record of the town meeting is in 1796. It was held at 
the house of Gideon Durfee, the first Tuesday in April, 1796. 
John Swift was chosen "Moderator," " Inspector," and " Super- 
visor." The following are some of the acts passed at that meet- 
ing — evincing evidently that the power was with the people. 
" Voted, That a pound be erected near Daniel Sawyer's house. 
Voted, That the inhabitants of Tolland shall confine their swine, 
and that the owner of any swine that doth damage, shall be liable 
to make said damage good, without regard to fence. 

Voted, That a fence shall not be deemed legal unless it is five 
feet high; for the first three feet the logs to be no more than four 
inches from each other, and the rails and logs for the remaining 
two feet may be nine inches from each other. 

Voted, That the Town will vendue the marks of cattle and 
sheep to the highest bidder." Joel Foster bid off the first mark. 
It was a crop of the left ear. Jonah Howell obtained the second. 
It was a crop of the right ear. John Swift's was a half-penny 
under the right ear. Forty nine persons thus paid for marks to 
be applied exclusively to their own possessions. 

Voted, " That $5 00 shall be paid for every wolf that shall be 
taken within the town of Tolland. 



19 

Voted, That a bounty of two cents be paid on crows, squirrels, 
woodpeckers, and blackbirds." 

By an act of legislature, 1799, Mud Creek was established as a 
navigable stream. Mills could not be erected without locks. At 
Zebulon Williams' store, where the depot now stands, were the 
head waters of navigation. 

The following is the oath of office, taken by John Swift as first 
Supervisor : 

" I, John Swift, do solemnly and sincerely promise and swear, 
that I will in all things, to the best of my knowledge and ability, 
impartially execute and perform the trust reposed in me as Su- 
pervisor of the town of Tolland, and the county of Ontario, and 
that I will not pass any account or any article thereof, wherewith 
I shall think the county is not chargeable, — nor will I disallow any 
account or article thereof wherewith I shall think it is justly 
chargeable. Signed — John Swift." 

The acts of this town-meeting show the strong sense and honest 
purposes of the early yeomanry. They believed that good fences 
and well-defined regulations make good neighbors. It speaks well 
for the political wisdom and moderation of the pioneers, that, for 
eight years, there was not a single law-suit in the town. 

V. Next to the " town-meeting " is the school. If individual 
integrity and responsibility will originate the "town-meeting," the 
town-meeting will soon build the " school house." 

The first assembly of citizens was in 1793. The same year 
two school houses were erected ; one on the spot where David 
Daggett's house now stands. The land was given by Gen. Swift ; 
the other was in East Palmyra, known as the Hopkins' school 
house. They were built of logs. There was then no complaint 
of long wood, or want of ventilation. There was true excitement 
the first day of school. The fall work done, Thanksgiving passed, 
the shoemaker having been the rounds of his itineracy, and the 
feet, little and great, having been ".shod with the true preparation," 
the warm winter suit having been cut and made by the tailoress, 
then it is proclaimed that " the school-master " is abroad to line 
the inner man with " Daboll " and " Murray." 

The ordeal of the first day was a severe one. Every wight 



20 

and lass scrutinized the bearing of the new teacher, and cast upon 
how far it would be safe to venture, — and, as the " master " must 
"board around," he becomes a part of every family. If he works 
out the sums, if he vindicates his ability and character to the 
scholars and parents, the schoolmaster is the great man for that 
year. Do any of you remember those slab seats, the great fire 
place, the flat, tingling ''ferrule f" 

I think I have heard from some of you legends about your early 
schoolmasters, especially one Englishman, a sage by the name of 
" Gunning," who was sometimes beguiled into a nap in the after- 
noon, while the boys and girls keenly enjoyed his dreams. 

But in all this there was life, beauty and strength. Spelling, 
cyphering, parsing went bravely on. The " single and double Rule 
of Three," " Loss and Gain," the " Square and Cube Root,"— the 
higher Mathematics of " single and double Position," were some- 
times all surmounted in eight, ten, or twelve weeks. 

The study, the parsing of Pope's Essay on Man, the reading of 
the beautiful extracts in the " English Reader," or " Columbian 
Orator," often touched the latent genius of souls all pregnant with 
celestial fire, and started them on a career of improvement, that 
carried them up amid the sublimities of science and literature. 
Bless God and our fathers for the common schools! They have 
been the strong timbers in our civil fabric. Shall the school still 
continue the pure fountain of knowledge and virtue ? 

VI. Near the school house stood the church. For fifteen years, 
the school house was the first synagogue. We are told that on Sab- 
bath days, the families of East Palmyra used to meet with the 
families of Macedon for worship in this village, coming up and 
down Mud Creek in boats. The early ministers, of different 
denominations, were Rev. Messrs. Condit, Johnson, Roe, Lane, 
Fairbanks, Bell, and Townsend. 

Sabbath services have never been interrupted since the arrival 
of the Long-Island colony. For fifteen years private dwellings 
and school houses were the synagogues. In 1807, a meeting was 
called at East Palmyra to deliberate upon the erection of a house 
of worship. The question of locality called forth a sharp debate. 
Oliver Clark plead for the north side of the creek. $100 if on the 



21 

north side, — $50 if on the south side. Humphrey Sherman advo- 
cated the south side. $100 if on the south side — nothing if on 
the north side. The site was at length fixed, where the Presby- 
terian church, in East Palmyra, now stands. The building sub- 
scription amounted to $421. The edifice was fifty-four by sixty- 
four. Gideon Durfee and Humphrey Sherman gave the land, — 
Sherman the west half, Durfee the east half. Sherman contended 
that there were some men for whom it was not meet to provide 
seats on holy ground, and insisted that his side of the house should 
be occupied by the women. It is unnecessary to say that this 
regulation was poorly carried out. 

The house was raised in July, 1807. The architecture was 
neither Gothic, Corinthian, or Ionic, but exactly followed the style 
of the old South-Hampton church, built just one hundred years 
before . 

The pulpit rested upon one pedestal, and was built up with bass- 
wood boards, so bent that its shape resembled a candlestick — hav- 
ing reference, no doubt, to the light that was there to shine. 

The dedication of this first church edifice west of the pre-emption 
line, was an occasion of great interest. It was, perhaps, the natu- 
ral right of Benjamin Bell, the then acting pastor, to sound out 
the word of God for the first time from that pulpit. But lie, it was 
said, "had preached politics on the wrong side." The Rev. Mr. 
Powell, a highly-esteemed "Welch clergyman, was invited to preach 
the dedicatory sermon. The services were commenced by sing- 
ing the 67th Ps. Text— Gen. 28 — 17 : " This is none other than 
the house of God, and this is the gate of heaven." The preacher 
first alluded to those who had given the land — to the noble struc- 
ture of the house — to the rich and beautiful country, and closed 
by exhorting them to assemble there every Sabbath to hear the 
word of God. The exercises were concluded by singing the 132d 
Psalm, L. M. 

The first house of worship in this village, was built on the site 
of the old burying-ground. It was " set on a hill." It has since 
come down. Does it reach as high toward heaven ? 

Many of you can recal those early Sabbath days. You can 
remember the naked rafters — the room, without fire-place or stove, 
and " Deacon Foster's ark." There has been some change in the 



22 

externals. Have we now the same winter-strained piety, that will 
make its way through snow drifts and pelting rain, and sit with 
reverence and attention to long sermons and prayers ? Would 
your hearts so glow and burn at the great themes of redemption 
and eternity, as to repel the cold and the wind that blew through 
your hair? Have you such a hold upon your families, as to bring 
them, to the sanctuary, even thus bereft of attraction and comfort ? 
Is the Bible to you and your children a pillar of cloud by day and 
a pillar of fire by night, directing your way through the wilderness ? 
There was indeed rigor in their piety, but it bore the true super- 
scription ; it had the ring of the true metal. 

If the Mormon prophet and the Hydesville ghosts did hail from 
Palmyra, they did not stay here. If we must own the deceivers, 
the deluded belong elsewhere. The hill, where Joe Smith dug for 
golden plates — the printer — the old press that struck off his Bible, 
and the proof-sheets, are still with us, but of the Mormon and the 
Hapjyers, we know not a single follower. The prophet here is 
without honor, and the Foxes do not spoil our vines. 

I can only notice the date of the organization of the different 
churches. The Baptist church was organized in the house of 
Lemuel Spear, in 1800. In 1811, the Methodist church was 
formed; the Episcopal church in 1804; the Presbyterian church 
in 1793. 

In conclusion, I remark, 1st — How soon are we forgotten! When 
we visit the ruins of ancient Palmyra, the " Tadmor of the desert," 
we expect obscurity. A year ago, I visited the old cemetery at 
Plymouth Rock, and found the grave-stones moss-covered and il- 
legible. We were not surprised. They had stood up against the 
storms of more than two hundred winters. But shadow and dubi- 
osity are gathering over even the memories of your fathers and 
mothers. Grim Forgetfulness has begun his reign even here. It 
is difficult to trace out the events and pioneers of even this modern 
Palmyra. If, from want of time and knowledge, I have omitted 
names deserving a place among their fellows, they are not there- 
fore unhonored. We are obliged to sink particulars in generals, 
or rather to give specimens. True life and growth are uncon- 
scious — noiseless. Silent works are the most effective. We record 



23 

the work of torrents and tornadoes ; but the dew that comes down 
eveiy night — the constant flow of the streamlet — are unwritten 
only by the verdure they nourish. We take notice of the "queen 
bee ;" but the swarms of working bees that fill the cells with honey, 
are unmentioned. The name of the general is emblazoned ; but 
the rank and file that achieved the victory, are unsung. 

So in the history of this community. The prominent few are 
exponents of the quiet many. The "justices," "physicians," 
" generals," may have left some memorial in the city of the dead ; 
but around them sleep the multitudes — the strong anna that felled 
these forests — the useful mechanics— the patient mothers, that 
spun and wove, talked of General Washington, and taught the 
children the word of God — to all these there is an unwritten history, 
that will be published at another day. Reputation on earth is 
short and uncertain; but character, usefulness, goodness, "are 
graven with an iron pen and lead in the rock forever." Jesse 
Uawley, while in prison for debt in Canandaigua, 1810, wrote 
some articles on the route, distance, and cost, of a canal through 
Western New York. The poor man was thought insane ; but 
DeWitt Clinton saw method in his madness. Clinton has the 
monument ; Hawley lies unhonored by his side. But there is 
another edition of human history, "corrected and revised." 

2d. This review illustrates the necessity and dignity of hard 
work. I am told that the native forests, especially on the lower 
grounds, were exceedingly dense. The trees were Anaks. How 
many strokes of the axe — how much plowing and drainage to clear 
and subdue these lands ! The first dwellings were without a particle 
of iron. The nails were of wood — the hinges and hasps of the door 
were of wood ! What monuments of mechanical ingenuity and toil 
are our public buildings, stores, factories, eligible and even elegant 
mansions. How many strokes of the pick-axe and spade to open 
this canal — raise up this railway ! Who shall estimate the brain 
labor — the heart work, in the way of mental, civil, and religious 
improvement ! 

What a change since John Swift struck the first blow ! We are 
even claiming the immunities of cities. We have our railway, 



24 

our telegraph — and when the sun goes down, instead of the pine 
knot and the " smoking lamp," a simple volition gives us the bril- 
liant lambent flame. It can be said of us, as of the tents of ancient 
Israel in Goshen — while darkness surrounds our neighbors, " we 
have light in our dwellings." "All things are full of labor." Our 
fathers have labored, and we have entered into their labors. Let 
not softness and delicacy think of bread without work ; for it is 
still true, " that by the sweat of thy face thou shalt eat thy bread, 
until thou return unto thy dust." 

3d. God is in history. His hand is in the history of this town. 
Many of the decisions of the fathers proved pivots, upon which 
turned the destiny of the children. The visit of William Hopkins 
to Long Island, just at the right time, doubtless diverted from many 
of you the possession of the land upon which Cincinnati now stands. 
The father of John Hurlburt offered his son the choice of lands in 
Rochester or Palmyra ; he preferred the same number of acres in 
Palmyra. Pardon Durfee, too, contemplated purchasing the site 
of Rochester ; but when, on a survey of the country, he was at- 
tacked with fever and ague, he came home to Palmyra in disgust. 

Let not the greed of gain count these decisions unfortunate. You 
might have rode as millionaires; but it may well be questioned 
whether the industrious principles and virtuous competency re- 
ceived from your fathers, are not a safer inheritance than the indul- 
gence and dangers of overgrown wealth. 

In 1845, a delegate to the General Assembly at Cincinnati, from 
South Hampton, Long Island, met the venerable Luke Foster — 
who, as you will remember, was one of the first exploring party 
from Long Island. Half a century had passed away, and he had 
not heard from Joel Foster and Elias Reeves. Did they then 
compare the condition of their posterity, we doubt not the latter 
were in the majority as to numbers and true prosperity. 

My hearers, you have a goodly heritage. The Lord hath dealt 
bountifully with you. 

Lastly — In relinquishing our views of the past, we inquire, what 
shall we do for the future ? We have. looked upon what you have 
received through the principles and achievements of others. Will 



25 

you transmit this inheritance to those who shall come after 
you? 

There are some things in the early history of this town which 
we should regret and shun. Stephen Durfee used to say, " the 
first curse that came among us was whiskey." It was the ruin of 
many of the early settlers and their sons. " I," said the old vete- 
ran, "made the first move in the cause of temperance. In 1811, 
I raised my house without a drop of intoxicating drink." After- 
wards, the " Friends " adopted strict temperance as a part of their 
discipline. Many a strong man has been cast down by this enemy. 
It is a painful fact, that so noble a patriot as John Swift should be 
beguiled of his discretion, and fall a prey to the enemy through so 
insidious a foe. We would indeed go backward with a mantle of 
charity ; but as we look forward, we inquire, " Shall the sword 
devour forever ?" 

While you are warned to escape the dangers, I ask, will you 
imitate the virtues, and carry out the noble purposes of your an- 
cestors ? You stand upon their shoulders. What will you bear 
upon your shoulders ? 

Your fathers brought into this wilderness a Bible — an ojyen Bi- 
ble. They brought a Sabbath — a Puritan Sabuatli. They built 
their sanctuaries. On the Sabbath morning, the sun spread over 
these valleys the old-fashioned Sunday quiet. No sight, no sound, 
but in harmony with the sacredness of the scene. It was a day 
of rest — a day of heaven. What would they have said to these 
Sunday boats — these Sunday engines, snorting defiance in the 
face of the Almighty ! 

Your fathers brought here Bible families. Mothers taught 
their sons and daughters the word of God — "allured to brighter 
worlds, and lead the way." 

My hearers : You move over the graves of your fathers. Do 
you cherish their faith and their virtues ? Will you make as good 
a bequest to posterity as they did ? Three other towns in the 
west have taken their name, "Palmyra" from this. You are 
writing history. Others will read it. These hills and valleys will 
remain. Your posterity will turn on their Thanksgiving days 
upon your memory. They will come on pilgrimages to look at 



26 

your grave-stones. Shall the review stir the noble sentiment, the 
high resolve to promote intelligence, extend liberty — to honor God 
— to save the world ? 

Fathers — Mothers — ye children and grandchildren of noble sires 
— I leave you to answer the claim of the past, by a career that 
shall make glorious the history of the future. 



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